We all know an early collection can make or break an upcoming designer. No designer would dare roll out a new line without researching manufacturing costs or running a tech sheet by a seasoned industry expert.
Yet, serviceability is a consideration that’s often overlooked, even by established design houses. A garment cannot be considered ready to wear if it cannot be cleaned. Most couture clients expect to clean their purchases as well. Selling garments that cannot be cleaned, or fall apart when cleaned as directed is a good way to ensure clients will think twice before buying from your label again.
This skirt actually melted when exposed to the cleaning process
Many fashion insiders are surprised to see how many unserviceable garments pass through a typical cleaner. Pieces across all price points can turn out to be uncleanable, often due to manufacturing or design issues. When an item is cleaned as directed and deteriorates, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) will tell you that the manufacturer is liable. Even the big guys make mistakes in labeling or manufacture – the difference is, they can afford to. Serviceability issues are so common that a trade group called the National Cleaners Association (NCA) works independently to indentify non-processables and alert cleaners through a bulletin called “Watch out for this Garment!”
The best way to ensure a garment is serviceable is to have it professionally examined and tested for solubility in the various common cleaning agents. This service is available free of charge at Meurice Garment Care to members of the CFDA (limit of two free tests per year). Another outstanding resource for garment testing is the NCA’s test lab on West 29th St.
A garment that contains a difficult to clean element isn’t necessarily impossible to process. In the old days, there was only one solvent available for dry cleaning, but today a cleaner worth their salt ought to have dozens of cleaning agents at their disposal. The most important thing is to accurately describe garments on their care label in order to ensure they’re not mishandled.
Aside from professional testing, good manufacturing practices can minimize garment serviceability issues. Here are a few common trouble areas to be mindful of:
Unserviceable Trimming: Many garments labeled “dry clean only” hold up well in cleaning solvent, but are trimmed with beads or sequins which do not. Not only does this mean that the trimming can be ruined by a careless cleaner, but it also presents the issue of “bleed” – fugitive dye running onto the garment as well. Sometimes these garments are more accurately labeled “Dry clean Only Exclusive of Ornamentation”. In either case, the cleaner must remove all trim, clean the garment and then sew all the trim back on! Can it be done? Sure, if the cleaner has a talented tailor! But, it’s a labor intensive and very costly process. A simpler solution is to use trimming that can withstand the dry cleaning process. However a garment is made, absolutely do NOT use glue in the construction.
Good example of bleeding trim on a garment
Pigment Prints: Pigment prints are in many cases problematic to clean. These prints are typically insoluble color particles held to a fabric with a binding agent. The pigment is applied to the fabric using various printing methods, which can deteriorate in either water or solvent. Pigment prints are often used in apparel as well as household goods such as draperies and bedspreads. It is often possible to hand-clean pigment prints, but it’s essential that they are identified clearly on the care label.
Coated Fabrics: Manufacturers use coatings such as vinyl, polyurethane, Gortex ® or Tyvek ® to give a fabric water and windproof qualities. These coatings can be sprayed on or laminated; again, proper identification is critical. Especially when quality control is weak, coated fabrics can delaminate, blister or stiffen when cleaned. This is an even greater problem when dry cleaners have not invested in multiple dry cleaning technologies and are precluded from using a less aggressive process.
The coated fabric on this coat dissintegrated when it was cleaned
Solvent Soluble Dyes: Many dyestuffs have a tendency to become fugitive and bleed when exposed to particular cleaning solvents or staining agents – this is particularly noticeable with garments that are both black and white. These garments must be treated with kid gloves: often bleeding can be avoided by reducing dry cleaning cycles, temperatures and moisture in solvent.
Piece Dyed Fabric: Fabrics are considered “piece dyed” when they are dyed after yarn has been woven into a fabric. This presents a risk of dye “crocking” (dye becoming fugitive and transferring) because the fibers in the fabric may not have been completely penetrated. This damage is typically pronounced in areas exposed to friction or abrasion during wear. Piece dyed garments must be cleaned with caution.
Dark suede or leather with a light colored textile: Dark-colored suede and leather pose a significant risk of bleeding. While this bleeding may not be perceptible when an entire garment is made from one material, it can easily show when the dark leather is paired against a contrastingly light textile. Also, since suede and leather are made from animal hides, natural irregularities can become much more noticeable after cleaning. If possible, avoid pairing dark animal hides with light textile, if that combination can’t be avoided it’s best to ensure the hide portion is easily detached from the rest of the garment, because the only safe way to clean it will be separately.
This coat contained dissemilar fabrics which reacted differently to cleaning
If there’s one critical lesson in manufacturing serviceable garments, it’s the need for accurate care labels. Take risks with your design, but be sure to play it safe with manufacturing and labeling.
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